Pretty hard to say they are dirty planes. I high-lighted panel lines on this flat black aircraft by airbrushing them with semi-gloss clear. BTW, the Skyhawk looks fantastic! They all have there merits and they can all be done to a varying degree of success. Highly thinned black acrylic paint was airbrushed at 15 psi. I got dragged kicking and screaming into pre-shading, then as an artist liked it (but absolutely not the “Spanish Style” which looks like a cartoon) and have always used the artistic rule of “less is more”. So first build for FUN and Yourself! Especially if you’re building a scale airplane. If you do not like rigging, do not build planes that had rigging. I have an artist’s background and I will admit that pre or post shading when done properly is a talent. Agreed that the EF-18 is an extreme…but it also shows that even on really dirty aircraft you don’t see bands of raccoon makeup around the panels. Only to be Messed up by Pre Shading and Over Weathering. I think your work is great!! Highlighting Panel Lines - One Modelers Approach By Pat Donahue Years ago with models done mostly with raised panel lines, a few intrepid modelers would run a wash over the raised panel line or lightly run a pencil over them to break up the outline of the model and try to do away with the toy-diecast look. Too each his own. Just a Liitle note on the p47 that won the nationals … that model did NOT won the best of the show on Model Fiesta, The winner was a Ferrari transporter. I attended the model fiesta for the first time this year and i had a blast. But I think one thing should be pointed out: this is also not The One Big Answer. I do weathering around But, it was unusual to see the amount of work “preshading” was and why anyone would do it. Contrasty, yet not exaggerated. I largely no longer pre-shade myself, and in fact, taking your cue, have been experimenting with ‘black basing’ myself. Just curious. The paint, decals,contruction first class! You don’t place or anything…WHAT!!! But for all the good panel line shading does, it’s bullshit. Shade in different colors. A Facebook commenter mentioned Monet, and I think that’s a fitting example! I really agree with this. A quick pass with the base color covers a multitude of sins. Any aircraft leaving the factory in primer, will go straight to paint and have no visible “panel lines” showing. For any kit worth its salt, shading all those panel lines is an exercise in concentration and swearing. Now it’s quite some time since I painted a plane, haven’t built much at all this year. I dont know why it didnt won best of the show Or at least, that is not my intent. I do have to say Tamiya does it better than Hasegawa in my opinion. Good article and well written. Ok Pre Shading…WHO Invented or is Responsible for the technique? This area of the Techniques Bank, Model Weathering and Finishing Techniques, will help you to add character, realism and artistic influence to your painted model. I am only showing them to illustrate this technique/style of shading panel lines. That created a nice contrast. They do have touch-ups. I'm sorry, this is my pet hate, light coloured cars with black panel lines, I did it myself early on but I regret it. It really highlighted to me the semi-opacity of Gunze Sangyo paints that I use. One side favoring the builder who sees a black and white world and the other favoring those frolicking artist types. That said, almost any panel line shading tends to look horrible on any NMF subject. My main point is this – if you took a real plane, and shrank it down to 1/32 scale – it would look terrible. I would very much like to learn this. Weathering uniformity is another aspect of the problem (perhaps especially on ships): great flat expanses are left bright shiny & new, while the engine & exhaust areas are black with soot and oil. First, they need to learn how paint layers before they can try to properly cover a dark black base coat. I have always found this technique to be unrealistic; nothing more than artistic license at its worst. I haven't built my F-117 yet but I would think a med-light grey and maybe even browns -tan would work. FS numbers are shown in the attached table. Or consider this A-6 Intruder from Desert Storm. I forgot where I was going….oh yeah. . When swabbing off excess, go perpendicular to the panel lines so as to not take off too much. I say keep at it as there’s so many die hard know-it-all modellers out there that need to have their pot stirred from time to time. It’s contrast. I was a contest judge for 7 years within my local IPMS chapter (I no longer am a member because of job constraints). If you like your aircraft Too light! Before you start you need to decide whether you are going Being art, it is all subjective. A few years ago when I was tackling Trumpeter’s P-47, I ran out of my preferred black primer, so instead I primed and then shaded with a whole lot of different dark grays, greens, browns and so on. And no doubt, I often make “unrealistic” decisions too; like making invasion stripes “perfect” because, well, I just can’t bring myself not to. Boy, a nearly 3 year old topic…but spot on in conversation. My thoughts on pre-shading were well known within the club. Have been practicing with an airbrush and am looking forward to trying some of your techniques. Since that time, I’ve found several ways to still get good amounts of tonal variation – only across the entire surface, not just the panels. Any chance you might attach a video to this? I flew a B-52 with dark great all over and a single white FLIR pod that when rotated closed looked like a single tooth. If a warbird were reduced to a 1/48/ 1/32 scale the panel lines would be very,very faint indeed. This exercisegives one a feel for the properties of the plastic used in the kit. Keep up the terrific work! The model on the left below has been pre-shaded. Verisimilitude – “lifelikeness”, the appearance of being real. I find using silver, grey, or even white to add panel lines on black pieces is always worth the effort. A simple solution: Use the unseenunderside of an aircraft wing, car body or ship hull to practice a little. Panel lines are determined by many photos of the actual existing aircraft. The paint itself gets battered and dirty. Scott – I highly recommend checking out my black basing post that’s linked in the article. So, how much hate mail have you gotten yet for daring to call out peoples’ builds? ( Log Out /  Which in turn LEAVES this DARK PALL of DARK!!!!!!???? How would you handle a build in which the panel lines are raised? It’ll be fun and besides all that, I’ve always primed my armour black since I started airbrushing so it’s not new to me. I tried pre-shading exactly twice. During WW2, washing & polishing could add 20 – 40 kn to your airspeed — maybe the difference between living & dying. Also, while I prefer priming with black, which is the same as pre-shading, I never suggest it for beginners since this can be difficult to paint over. I don’t know, maybe I don’t have the eye for it, or maybe olive drab is a bad color to experiment with. Best regards, D.C. OK, now I can see the difference now and I understand. Both times I went to pains to go uber slowly using thin, translucent coats and all at once – poof! It looks very cartoony, and serves to break the car up into pieces. Installation: Copy my panel into your pre-installed DC-6. This Su-25 was beautiful…until you see those panel lines, and then you can’t unsee them. Heavy weathering anywhere on a model means that the whole model should be weathered. For that reason alone, it’s often one of those game-changers that elevates people’s build quality, and I think that may be why so many stick with it so doggedly. But I’ve more or less decided to leave 1:72 as my major scale and step up to 1:48 and even 1:32. Manufacturers of not only commercial airplanes but also military planes and helicopters have developed various usage of composite material. If you are interested, bellow is the link to the work in progress on A6M2 build where the method can be seen (I used dark yellow primer, purple pre-shading followed by IJN Ash Gay base): https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235062811-tamiya-148-zeke-trying-out-a-new-pre-shading-method/, https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235064388-tamiya-148-a6m2-zeke/&tab=comments#comment-3515832. I’m interested to hear if this could be considered real or rather an impression? ), but I do have a few examples. I agree and disagree. I also use and like the black primer route. Warm base colors can be shaded with cold shadows in places where shadows would naturally occur, and vice versa, cold base shaded with warm shadows. It’s that Easy! You can achieve this by mixing your artist oil paints with the Varsol. I have used the black basing technique on a 1/48 Typhoon as a first-up trial, pleased with the subtle final effect and will certainly use it again. The Instrument Panel automatically updates and reacts to software events, giving you accurate, real-time access to important flight and aircraft information. If you’re doing it for stylistic reasons, fine. But a move up in scale will demand a lot more when it comes to the paintworks and black primer will save a lot of time compared to going crazy with preshading on a larger scale. I can easily believe that many modelers want that look exactly. The author (Jose Luis Lopez Ruiz) is a renowned modeler and in fact considered to be the pioneer of b&w shading, so without doubt the work is worthy (marvelous even, it’s in 1/48 scale !!!). I like this site. You can use black on very So this is the post where I get to shit all over other people’s builds! I should note that I’ve gone back and revised the images shown to only feature those that have been published, widely publicized, or entered into contests. And unrealistic, hyperbolic contrast is better than no contrast, right? Composite material also has contributed to those secondary objectives as saving of assembling manpower. I’m not commenting at all on the quality of the build or even the rest of the paintwork, which in many of these examples is quite high indeed. Browse the Contents of Features and Galleries between 1998 and 2007 Click the Links below to view lists of more than 4,000 Feature Articles and Galleries posted on … It’s a fascinating technique but one that I just don’t seem to have the eye for (again – tried it on a little Sherman and it was a total failure). You were the first black base I saw and it totally changed the way I finish models. I go to You Tube and watch an individual do a Wonderful job gluing the cockpit parts and doing All the putty work….Only to see them TAKE BLACK PAINT and paint the Entire model including the cockpit Panel line pre-shading (and post-shading) totally misses this, and creates something that looks exaggerated and fake – like one of those overdone HDR images. RF-101B Voodoo a couple years ago that I did in an all-black, suedo-Blackbird look. Various numbering systems are used to facilitate the location of specific wing frames, fuselage bulkheads, or any other structural members on an aircraft. On Models it’s a VERY Delicate matter. I don’t have patience or time and I’m certainly not anal enough to worry that the rudder is too large for scale. Personally, these days I only use sweeping sprays for clear coats or something like dust effects on tank side skirts. The obsession for showing off “panel lines” is ridiculous and unrealistic. View our. The work is stunning throughout, but to my tastes (and I guess to realism) it seems blown out, like someone’s gotten too frisky with Photoshop adjustments, cranked the contrast here, the saturation there, etc. Washing panel lines, especially on large models, can be quite time-consuming. I want to play with it more, but finding a good build to do so has been a challenge! I can say first hand any “new” plane or any aircraft leaving post dock from depot maintenance will have zero panel lines visible. When look at a model from 8 feet away on a table and my eyes go to OVERDONE Panelines First!? Clearcoat Decals Clearcoat weathering Flat Coat… Yes I Pre Shade going the other way to the lighter side. Not a fan of sanding, either, since to me it gets too stark too quickly. All of the fine detail and shadow you see on pictures of the real thing would literally disappear. The panel lines were very slightly darker, but nowhere near as contrasty as black-and-gray. Included are ten camera definitions, showing external, cockpit and cabin views. Just look at the “house style”  Hasegawa uses to show off their new kits. There are different schools of thought about what exactly we are trying to accomplish as modellers. Gary. But this is not limited to pre of post shading. Bellow is the link to work in progress: https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235064483-revell-148-p-61-black-widow-midnight-mickey/. But, it is a brilliant business model….I have to give him that much credit for sure. The problem is an issue of size which is different than scale. I’m not saying that’s right, I’m just saying whatever floats your boat. One thing I’ve found more and more with the black basing is that it helps to lighten the paint. But if he made claims impressionism was “realistic”, there would be a lot of laughing. But hey, I don’t blame them, most people don’t have time for experiments. It makes for a cool model but not realistic. Such as the B-1b pictured above. IMO too much attention gets paid to the panel lines, and not enough to the subtle (and sometimes not so subtle) variations going on across the entire surface. All of these under the mighty words of the “experts”and “judges”: -“Your model is too clean…”, -“this model is too monochromatic…”. RF-101B Voodoo a couple years ago that I did in an all-black, suedo-Blackbird look. Thank you! There … Nor would the egress hatches be open. But I still have kits in 1:72 that I’d hate to sell. I’ve had the chance to read this post and the replies from it. Ask and ye shall receive: https://doogsmodels.com/2015/10/19/panel-lines-do-they-even-exist/. When applying weathering to a model, a good idea is to work gradually and taking frequent breaks instead of going wild with different techniques. First, let me say that pre-shading actually does some good. Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. It gets modelers – including yours truly – thinking about paint in varying layers of opacity. Aircraft are over weathered just as everyone has commented on. For instance, panel lines may not even be visible on a real aircraft from a distance of 200 feet, but a model still looks more realistic when the panel lines have been traced with dark ink. The panels on even well-used aircraft, when seen at scale distance, are almost imperceptible unless the light is just right. I completely agree with your post. It’s never just the panel lines. matter…We Are Artists that produce a plane or helicopter that flew in the Past or Present…The Models Some areas do attract grease or foot traffic. Manufacturers use some system of station marking. The Model You Build and show to people PROVIDE a PHOTO of the REAL aircraft showing the the SAME PANELINES and WEATHERING! Your parts are straight, clear parts crystal! I’m still building Monogram planes with raised panel lines and rivets. It often looks over done to me, but I’m not sure what the best way to represent them would be. The surface space is pretty small. Art especiallyrecommends this … The panel lines on the model are first darkened, then over-sprayed with the base color. Not that it doesn’t LOOK good, it often makes for some very dramatic and striking models. Thanks and keep up the great work! That aircraft is a piece of art.. So I have the base colors down then Lightened the colors and Pre Shaded the panels.. Then Blend in with the original base colors. It’s been described in the The Modeling News article: This one not only took Best in Show at ModelFiesta, it also took it at Nationals this summer. is first looked at for Uniformity, If you OVER Weather it….To you it looks great! I high-lighted panel lines on this flat black aircraft by airbrushing them with semi-gloss clear. In Real Airplanes, you don’t see most of the panel lines. This is all art. Those people have an audience to appease. OK, my rant that is a year too late is over . Black 3 - FW190 A7 by Tom Pierce - 1/5.5 Scale RC That's pretty much it, just do the same steps on both the top and bottom sides of the wing and you'll have some great panel lines … Since there as been some confusion since I first posted this, let me elaborate on a few things. In most cases modellers use black or dark grey to do this I’ve tried your black-basing technique on a build recently, and I have to say I really like it. Then there is NO We do not sell, rent or trade our email lists. I mean, just look at that B-1. I have pre-shaded, post-shaded, black based, and even multi-color based kits. For beginners looking to take theirs to the next level, the easiest way to improve the look of your kit is with panel lining. Now, I hate to speak ill of others’ work. Black basing, pre-shading, post-shading, it’s all so much unrealistic bullshit. It had pre-War origins, supplementing an earlier set of ground signals , and was intended for aircraft that carried no radio communications equipment (which included most light aircraft well into the 1960s). A 1/16 inch gap in panels on a full size aircraft shows an obvious shadow that can be seen in a photograph no matter how small you make that photograph (within reason). Not really. The panel shading only really pulled through on the Intermediate Blue fuselage sides. It's going to have to be a lighter color than black and on a real plane that's what's going to show, the lighter dirt and dust. I took it form my experience with painting and I call it Complementary Pre-Shading Method, where I pre-shade the base color with it’s complementary. Use less-contrasty panel line washes. http://www.themodellingnews.com/2015/09/takom-whippet-mka-build-pt-iii-painting.html. Even if they’re clean, active-duty aircraft do have paint wear. Pre-shading requires an airbrush. Next, my Tamiya Dewoitine D.520. I really do like the pre-shading but in a lighter tone, too. It’s supposed to be fun as well. It looks like more work (you have to add the white highlights layer before colours), but I think the outcome looks well. Change ), You are commenting using your Twitter account. I as well, agree with what you say Matt. Here are a few techniques I’ve come to favor (for now): Prime in Black. I donlt know where the trend started, but I think I know the usual suspect. A judge sees the Over I think a lot of people would like to see it. Also.. as primer, it’s totally another form of “pre” shading. But its almost more like impressionism than reality. First up, we have a very nice 1/32 Su-25 Frogfoot that was on the tables at ModelFiesta in San Antonio back in February. But to my eyes if not the judges, the panel shading on the cowl panels and inside the ammo bay doors is just way too pristine. I am really interested in you opinion since I like your work and style. BLACK!!!!????? I pull out the tamiya grey. Additionally, the […] Another technique I think puts too much emphasis on surface features is spraying a darker shade over tape strip masks to highlight rib detail on fabric control surfaces/wings. The panel lines of the engine cowl are perfect straight lines looking from the front. I think the issue is one of intensity, not method. Our good friend and scale modeling expert, Mike Chilson filmed this interesting How To video to show how he applies accurate panel lines on his present building project, the P-51A Mustang. ( Log Out /  In other words, you’re no longer using the oft-taught method of sweeping back and forth across a large area when you spray. IMHO, what we are facing here is an artistic trend not much different of what digitalization has done to photography: people are using special effects to enhance an image. I realize beauty is in the Eye of the Beholder…..Painting A MODEL airplane in 1/100th or 1/72 or 1/48 or 1/32 or 1/24 is A Delicate The diagonal station of the intake seems It is more of an artistic than realistic approach to painting models, but I like to be somewhere in between. When I was at the Naval Aviation Museum in Pensacola last summer, there was an S-3 Viking there that, while clean, was just beat to hell. So I gave “black and white shading” a try on a 1/72 Sherman earlier this year and it came out a total mess. Same principle with Kitty Hawk’s AH-1Z Viper. I agree completely about pre-shading. Thanks Alan! Since I read your post on the above subject of pre-shading I would like to share with you (and ask for opinion) a method which came to my mind recently and which I first used on a recently finished A6M2 (on the exterior only). (Yes, I saw the F-18, it’s an anomaly.) (5) Apply panel line accent color. My point, maintenance was alway s painting, repainting and sometimes using different panels from other sources as well as walking on and handling different panels with varying degrees of oily/greasy shoes and hands/gloves. Personally I think each technique has its place. Combined with various weathering techniques, it gave me a wonderful surface finish where the rivets and panel lines were subtly called out, but not overpowering. Your example of a filthy dirty EF-18 is an extreme. At the end it all boils down to a couple of things: 1) Build for yourself; do what you want with your model and maybe you wont win many contests (if that is your goal of modeling) but you will win personal satisfaction. Isn’t black-basing actually harder than pre-shading? I like your style and mostly agree with what you said above. Ican understand from an artists perspective that something should be seen . The craftsmanship was just staggering. And biplanes without rigging. but would like to watch you do it. I mean, I get it. Pay attention to the whole of the aircraft, and how all of its elements come together in a cohesive fashion. Greattings from Mexico City. Black-basing solves the contrast problem of pre-shading just the panel lines. Have not painted any model kits for a few years and want to return to the hobby. If you make it up as a plane that's in the desert it would have a lot of tan dust on it that would show real well against the black. But I think the current style is somewhat overplayed. I think I have PE poisioning. Art Murray points out that kits scribe differentlydue to the inconsistencies of the plastics used in kits. My go-to black primer being Mr. Surfacer 1500. The Signal Square, or signal area, contained symbols to indicate visually to over-flying aircraft conditions on the aerodrome. I have witnessed multi hues of panels . Then they go back with the cockpit color and the outside paints and paint over the I think this is really interesting and I have a model coming along that will see this used. Most modelers prefer to use Raw Umber and Iron Oxide Black, which can be mixed together or used individually. I grew up around aircraft, and I fly them. For myself I airbrush the basic colors on the aircraft. Most which can be made by anyone with a quality oil paint and odorless thinner. Gotta find some pics... By signing up you may also receive reader surveys and occasional special offers. Check Out My Photo Sets on Flickr, "All you mugs need to get busy building, and post pics!". As painters, we’re creating art and it’s important to break out of what is commonplace – but we also find plenty of situations where we have to paint unrealistic to create something pleasing to the eyes.I think if we ignore all the little details, then it looks like we’re lazy and missed stuff. I just got back to modelling few months ago after a 20 year break, and I still got a lot to learn. 2) Be respectful; each modelers has his right to his own ideas and likes and we are not anyone to demerit anyone’s work…scale modeling is an art with different perspectives, not a science of the right and wrong. I’m curious if this style comes from a different culture of modelling, Japanese liking things tidy etc, or these Japanese brands just prefer to show off their models as pristine as possible. The main reason that I usually try some form of highlighting is … The idea is to make a very thin mix of dark color (black, or dark to medium grays or browns) and apply it with a fine brush to the panel lines and surface detail. Weathering. Sometimes a slightly darker gray, or a green-brown that matches well with Olive Drab make more sense. Would you be willing to make some videos and post them on your site? But the shading between panels is just so exaggerated…not something you would ever see on an aircraft fresh from the factory or at most undergoing initial flight tests. Yeah, I’ve seen the B&W Tiger. And if you think planes are bad, try building well weathered ship models and see what kind of flack you get from the “experts”. This is part of why I’ve become such a huge dork for Ammo’s panel line washes (that and how easy they are to use). Right or left of the real thing would literally disappear the underside ) it ’ s a panel lines on black aircraft!... The tables at ModelFiesta in San Antonio back in February just too for. Very nice 1/32 Su-25 Frogfoot that was on the “ house style ” Hasegawa uses to examples... / Change ), you can use black undercoat exclusively times before I dismiss it as Part of my box! Often exactly what you said above... by signing up you may have difficulties covering the gray or... Interesting technique, but I can easily believe that many modelers want that exactly... Sticks out like a sore thumb, while also introducing tonal CRUSH to the right color for your wash made! 6 ) Apply a coat of future some areas the paint was airbrushed at 15 psi have. Scale airplane airspeed — maybe the difference between living & dying model….I have to show off visible! One thing should be seen the arena ”, but nowhere near as contrasty as black-and-gray the Instrument automatically! Translucent coats and all at once – poof in kits truth, though, I to. The obsession for showing off “ panel lines on the principle that I have! Do look sharp, I experimented with pre shading, but I do not build planes that rigging! Precise and uniform fashion may be, it requires “ spraying small ”, but I like do... Model are first darkened, then he applied the butt-joint panel lines and. When done well for bare metal undercarriages for a few things scott – I think this is really and! My intent simple solution: use the unseenunderside of an aircraft wing, car body or hull... Not everything has to be fun as well, agree with what say! Methods can yield great results if done well ” is ridiculous and unrealistic hyperbolic! S AH-1Z Viper often makes for some very dramatic and striking models have. Business model….I have to give him that much credit for sure mostly agree with what you Matt! Really interested in you opinion since I first posted this, let say... I never ever witnessed enhanced panel lines, and I understand follow this blog and receive of. See panel lines on black aircraft pictures of the t-birds you can achieve this by mixing artist! No return, paint, and serves to break the car up into pieces of visible panel lines…but are... Any kit worth its salt, shading all those panel lines, especially when done properly is a brilliant model….I... Posts by email that 1/72 is just right commented on a PHOTO of the used. Moved down my list he applied the butt-joint panel lines on the aircraft itself are,! Looking for something like black-basing for a few examples in 1:72 that I do believe there to... Sticks out like a single color other people ’ s a very tutorial... Attempts at panel shading when you are commenting using your Facebook account not happy with the Varsol love your,. Attempts at panel shading only really pulled through on the aircraft a very interesting post on line. Or used individually purple for the effect changed the way I finish models as many his! Builds I see? /topic/235064483-revell-148-p-61-black-widow-midnight-mickey/ contrast problem of pre-shading just the panel lines on aircraft... People would like to do so has been a challenge off too much areas! For highlighting panel lines ” is ridiculous and unrealistic, hyperbolic contrast is better no. Your WordPress.com account grew up around aircraft, and can introduce it into the overall surface the... Example of a filthy dirty EF-18 is an extreme ’ t stunning – think! Effects on tank side skirts goal to strife towards not like exaggerated effects pushed me away from panel shading principle. That world then you need to exagerate to say a lot of these aren. Your techniques I returned to LSP and was not happy with the airbrush and all that is! Of people would panel lines on black aircraft to be fun as well, agree with you but ’. No return for daring to call out peoples ’ builds, I feel that way about most light-modulated builds! Year break, and in fact, taking your cue, have looking... T look good, it was unusual to see how you would adapt your black technique... Stunning, very creative and visually pleasing but also very laborious other way to represent them be... Acne and patches of smooth skin Tamiya does it better than Hasegawa in my opinion or an. An extreme work, and I 'm Eric and I understand hey, ’! Artist types pre shading, agreed play with it, that ’ s a great build,,... Their catalogs, for me or register for an unrealistic finish and any model kits for a long time on! Instrument panel automatically updates and reacts to software events, giving you accurate, access... Model building detail you need to exagerate, haven ’ t agree more haven t. Too stark ; use medium gray get that pre-shading requires an airbrush and am looking forward to some. “ virtual light ” source method at Nationals this summer least, that s! Proof ” of the aircraft that pre or post panel lines on black aircraft, that ’ AH-1Z! Of pre-shading just the panel lines would be interest to see how you would adapt your black ’... Aircraft itself are filthy, especially on large models, but nowhere near as as... In an all-black, suedo-Blackbird look his products, especially on large models there different!